The Gossip Lady Reports on a 1730s Wedding Dress and an Exhibit on Shoes

Photo courtesy J. Dennis Robinson

Gossip: Shoes Through The Ages

By Jeanné McCartin

Portsmouth Herald, July 03, 2014 - 2:00 AM

Walking through History

Kimberley Alexander, Ph.D., visiting assistant professor in the Department of History at the University of New Hampshire and a member of the Warner House curatorial committee (take a deep breath after that), is a very busy woman and could do with a pause herself. That's unlikely for some time though.

Alexander just completed six months of researching Bostonian Elizabeth Bull. The project culminated in a discussion by Alexander at the Old State House in Boston, regarding the pre-Revolutionary fashionista's incredible wedding dress (search for the write-up on the Boston Globe's Web site at www.bostonglobe.com).

Alexander and Patricia Gilrein, the Bostonian Society's collections manager, are collaborating on a publication based on the "amazing trove of information" gathered during the process. "We're hoping to complete it in the next nine months," Alexander says.(www.bostonhistory.org)

That is in addition to a "dynamic" new project, the Newmarket resident adds.

Alexander also is co-curating an exhibit of historical footwear with Sandra Rux, president of the Warner Houses board and curator at the Portsmouth Historical Society. The exhibit is scheduled for the Portsmouth Athenaeum in 2015. (www.PortsmouthAthenaeum.org)

"We're looking at how shoes were made, but also shoes as an important commodity," Alexander says. Shoes speak to status, job, change in style, even the wearer's condition. "They tell you stories you don't find written text. ...; So many are women's shoes and they are left out of the official historic record."

The show will feature footwear from throughout New England, many pieces exhibited for the first time publicly.

Image, Sally Brewster Gerrish silk brocade shoe, c. 1770s John Paul Jones House, Portsmouth Historical Society, Courtesy, J. Dennis Robinson

For full article, see: http://t.seacoastonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20140703/ENTERTAIN/407030302/0/tablet&template=tabletart

A Special Evening with Elizabeth Bull's 1735 Wedding Gown at The Bostonian Society

Join us as we discuss the recent conservation of and the context in which Elizabeth Bull (Price) created her wedding dress in 1730s Boston. We will also take a quick (virtual) shopping spree through the city's commercial core, exploring what was available to her as a leading style-maker.

You can reserve your place at The Bostonian Society Facebook page  https://www.facebook.com/events/584856911613593/ or www.bostonhistory.org

For more, see Visiting with Elizabeth Bull's Wedding Dress

Visiting With Elizabeth Bull's Wedding Dress, c. 1731-1735

“Tradition in the family states that he attended divine worship at Trinity Church, and there saw, for the first time, Miss Elizabeth Bull. He [Reverend Price] was so much pleased with her beauty that he gave up his intention of returning to England, sought her acquaintance, and during the year 1735 she became his wife.”

           -Annals of King’s Chapel.

When Miss Elizabeth Bull (b. 23 February 1716) began work on the dress that she would ultimately wear for her marriage to Reverend Roger Price, she was a teenager, probably about 15 years old. She most likely had not yet met, and was certainly not betrothed to, her future groom. According to The Bostonian Society (TBS), the caretakers of this rare pre-Revolutionary garment: "Miss Bull began designing, sewing, and embroidering her own China silk wedding gown while in school, a project undertaken by young women to practice and perfect the advanced needle arts. She had already been working on the gown for several years when, in 1734, she met Reverend Roger Price at Trinity Church. The gown was still not completed when Miss Bull wore it to their wedding the following year."

Viewing the "practice bodice" worked by Elizabeth Bull, perhaps as a prelude to her wedding dress, was an unexpected treat. Apparently never completed or worn, it is in excellent condition and the colors are still vibrant. My photos do not capture the texture & nuance of the piece, but hope they convey a glimpse of the beauty. This garment has long been one of my personal favorites, in part because of the many family stories the alterations reveal. Many will likely remain mysteries, even once the conservation of the dress is complete. The skilled work is being carried out by textile conservator, Kathryn Tarleton. (www.contextinc.net) 

Visiting at least a portion of the dress as it was intended – before the style driven alterations during the 19^th century – provided a special opportunity to experience a 1730s garment. Embroidered bold, bright floral patterns, laid out asymmetrically, dominate the “practice bodice” currently on view at TBS. The twisting tendrils, over-sized motives and powerful palette are associated with the Rococo in textiles, furniture  and wall coverings and hangings.

Above, details, hand embroidered floral details, silk thread on silk.  Note the hand drawn pattern, completed either by the young Miss Bull or an experienced family member or instructor to guide her embroidery.

The Bostonian Society/Old State House has undertaken major conservation of this significant gown and will be posting new information as it becomes available.

www.BostonHistory.org

Kimberly Alexander, Ph.D.

University of New Hampshire

Durham, NH. USA