Breathtaking Bespoke Boots, c. 1890s

I have written about these bodacious boots before (http://www.silkdamask.org/2014/12/a-trio-of-victorian-party-boots.html), but had the opportunity to view them in person as part of the “Fashion Victims” exhibition at the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto (now closed). (http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/fashion-victims/)

While they are visually arresting in published photos (as seen in the image above, courtesy of the Bata Shoe Museum; all other photos by author), seeing them up close was a very different experience. The level of artisanry, the luxury of the materials and the whimsy found in the overall design, is exceptional.

As noted by the Museum curator, Elizabeth Semmelhack, the gold kid leather appliqué and velvet are 'erotically charged' and they resemble a stockinged leg. Even a glimpse beneath a skirt would have been tantalizing. They are most likely of Swedish or German make, from c.1890s. 

These bespoke boots may have been commissioned by a specific client or perhaps more likely, as a ‘show off’ piece meant for display at an Exposition.  In any event, they are truly stunning. Enjoy the photos I captured during my visit.

Snappy Victorian Button Boots by Atelier Louette-Finner

Fun, fresh and contemporary low-heeled button boots, circa late 1870s-1880s, by Belgian shoe and bootmakers, atelier Louette-Finner. The black and white check upper contrast with the black lower, giving the appearance of a spat or overshoe. It is the use of the checked textile clad heel which sets the boots apart, adding a visual flourish and illustrating why the firm excelled in design. The heel softens the more masculine style.  The boots are in the collection of the Bata Shoe Museum and on view in ‘Fashion Victims’ (through January 2017; http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/fashion-victims/)

The shoe concern exhibited at a number of international expositions, including the 1867 Paris International. Their shoes may be found in other collections, such as the Centraal Museum.  

Again, atelier Louette-Finner adds their own design flare to two pairs of 1870s women’s shoes.

For more: http://centraalmuseum.nl/ontdekken/object/?img_only=1#o:7779

Breathtaking Bespoke Boots, c. 1890s

Oh my! I have written about these bodacious boots before (Here), but last week had the opportunity to view them in person as part of the “Fashion Victims” exhibition at the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, on view through January 2017. (http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/fashion-victims/)

Note the sculptured heel; soft velvet pile paired with the smooth, gold leather

While they are visually arresting in published photos, seeing them up close was a very different experience. The level of artisanry, the luxury of the materials and the whimsy found in the overall design, is exceptional.

As noted by the Curator, Elizabeth Semmelhack, the gold kid leather appliqué and velvet are 'erotically charged' and they resemble a stockinged leg. Even a glimpse beneath a skirt would have been tantalizing. They are most likely of Swedish or German make, from c.1890s.

One wonders if these bespoke boots were ordered by a specific client or were perhaps ‘show off’ piece meant for display at an exposition.  In any event, they are truly stunning. I hope you enjoy the photos I captured during my visit.

All photographs by Kimberly Alexander; courtesy of the Bata Shoe Museum

A Victorian Favorite: Special Occasion Shoes by Viault-Este, Paris

Such pretties -- a wedding shoe and a dancing slipper of silk, satin, ribbons, lace, and leather, c. 1860. They were manufactured by Viault-Este, a prolific mid-19th century French shoe concern. 

Note the wear marks on the footbed.

They joined with London-based Thierry, and greatly expanded their exports, during the 1850s. Their labeled, special occasion ladies shoes are found in dozens of American collections. With an elegant, stylish appeal, they were a go-to shoe for middle to upper middle class Victorian women. A knock on heel kept costs down and the ability to personalize them made them attractive to customers.

These two shoes (one each of a pair) were worn in New England by Sarah Dutton (Leverett) Tuttle (b. 1835.) The wedding shoes feature a delicate ribbon and lace rosette, while the dancing shoe is accented with a cheerful pink silk bow.

The shoes are in the collection of the Massachusetts Historical Society (www.masshist.org) Acc. # 0836.01-.02

Mrs. Abigail Norman Price & Her Exquisite French Evening Shoes, 1875-1885

Ahhh – these elegant evening shoes, were made in Paris and worn by American Abigail Kinsley Norman Prince (1860-1949). As with many wealthy women of the time, she travelled to Paris, visiting the fashion houses and acquiring the latest in French fashions. Mrs. Prince’s family donated the shoes to the Metropolitan Museum in the 1960s, along with a rich collection of some 400 garments and accessories. .[1]

There are several unusual elements found in the evening shoes, indicating not only a special make, but perhaps, Mrs. Prince made certain stylistic requests from the unknown designer. The evening shoes featured ribbon work embroidery, not commonly seen on shoes. Further, the oversized satin ankle straps were unusual for the time – generally shoes were slip-ons, without straps. These details most likely indicate a special order. The quality of the shoes may also be seen in the finished edges and the stitching on the heel and instep.

1. For additional information on the family and the large donation to the collection, see: Jessa J. Krick, Senior Research Assistant: http://www.metmuseum.org/research/curatorial-research/the-costume-institute/american-woman-symposium/behind-the-scenes/prince-donation

Illustrations courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/156311?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=evening%2Bshoes&deptids=8&when=A.D.%2B1800-1900&where=France&what=Silk&pos=2&imgno=1&tabname=label