A Pair of Silk Satin Shoes by Francis Jacobs, c. 1840s

According to a paper label adhered to one of his shoes, Francis Jacobs was a mid-19th century ladies shoemaker, with shops at 32 Rue de la Paix, Paris, and 179 Regent Street, London. He counted members of royalty among his clients.

Selected as participant in several European expositions, Jacobs was known for the grace and comfort of his Ladies boots. In 1842, worked with noted physicians inventing a system to help strengthen and straighten the ankles of children. Called the "Contreforte." the boots were made to secure the child's foot without causing discomfort or restricting their movements. 

The silk satin shoes shown here are no doubt examples of Jacobs more common production. They have thin narrow leather soles, and one shoe features a paper label. The shoes were purchased from Finn Wicks Costume, and, in the sale lot, there were two dresses which indicated that the owner/wearer of the shoes was Hanah Elizabeth [Holmes] Woodward (born 1813-died 1849). 

A Pair of Festive Silk Brocade Pinet Evening Shoes

Collection of the author
Photo, K. Alexander

These elegant Francois Pinet (1817-1897) evening pumps, c. 1920 are included in my (very) modest study collection.  (The business continued after the senior Pinet died.) They feature a festive, sparkly silk brocade upper with leather sole and heel covered with the same textile as the shoe. They boast the ‘F. Pinet’ label, as well as “Pinet” stamped into leather sole.  

Just about as wonderful as the shoes themselves, however, is the survival of the original box, which probably accompanied them home with a very happy owner.

Pinet, the son of a shoemaker, made many contributions to the field of late 19^th Parisian ladies footwear. His elegant boots of the 1870s-1880s were high style designs perfectly at home paired with a Worth gown, for example.

Pines satin lace up boots, c. 1870
Courtesy Bata Shoe Museum

The attention to detail, in particular the balanced design, makes these appear quite comfortable – but I will never know, as I have no intention of trying them on! 

 For additional information:

The Art of the Shoe, Marie-Josephe Bossan, 2004, p. 67

http://astepintothebatashoemuseum.blogspot.ca

http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/shoes-the-sole-provider/

http://www.modemonline.com/modem-mag/article/1317-france--paris-francois-pinet-bootmaker-to-the-elegant

A Trio of Victorian Party Boots!

Pondering parties past as we welcome 2015….The Victorian elite knew how to capture the glitter, sparkle and shine of the holidays, from their dresses and accessories, right down to their selection of footwear..

The ultimate in Victorian party boots, these crimson silk satin brocade showoffs were worn to the "opening" soiree at Chicago society and fashion maven, Mrs. Potter Palmer's new home by one of her friends, Mrs. A.F. Ratray Grieg, in 1883. The black kidskin is decorated with cut-out foliate pattern, underlaid with gold-colored kid. The scallop-edge closure has brass buttons. The “baby” French heel finishes the composition. Unfortunately, the maker is unknown. I can only imagine what the evening dress looked like!

http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p16029coll3/id/123/rec/5

This pair of rather astonishing velvet & gold leather button boots are true attention getters.  Note the gold leather details which echo the form of stockings and spats. The heels on theses c. 1880-90s boots is particulary graceful.

Featured in the 2008 exhibition “HEIGHTS OF FASHION: A HISTORY OF THE ELEVATED FOOT” at the Esplanade Museum [Alberta, Canada]. Image via www.wornthrough.com/

Though not as robust as the boots pictured above, the use of a brocaded silk satin creates an air of restrained luxury. The maker is not known, but they are likely from France, c.1889. Via the Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Exhibition - "Cosmopolitan Consumption: New England Shoe Stories, 1750-1850"

            In early New England, the significance of shoes extended beyond function alone.  New Englanders prized, celebrated, and displayed their shoes as markers of fashionable style and genteel sensibility. They also refreshed, altered and revamped them, making repairs as long as the leather was still good.

            The exhibition Cosmopolitan Consumption: New England Shoe Stories, held at the Portsmouth Athenaeum, is a rich exploration of New Englanders and their shoes.  We will introduce viewers to lives of figures both prominent and middling, through both stunning and well-worn examples of this significant American accessory.  Viewers will explore the process of how shoes were made, sold, and worn in New England, 1750-1850.

            Through the lives and letters of clever apprentices, skilled cordwainers, wealthy merchants and elegant brides, Cosmopolitan Consumption will take us on a journey from bustling London streets, to ship cargo holds, to New England shops and, ultimately, to the feet of eager consumers throughout the region. The “shoe stories” recount a young bride dancing with George Washington during his visit to Portsmouth or a lady attending a ball for Marquis de Lafayette; they trace the fortunes and misfortunes of wearers as shoes were altered to accommodate poor health and changing styles, and finally, they provide glimpse into the shoemaking business of artisans like Sam Lane of Stratham, who sold his shoes at Market Square in Portsmouth. This rich shoemaking heritage continues today. We ask our viewers to consider how these fashionable shoes reveal the hopes and dreams of New Englanders.

            The “shoe stories” will be told via approximately 25-35 pairs of shoes, pumps, and mules from numerous local, regional and private collections. Many of the shoes have never before been on display, making this a destination exhibition.

            An active program series is planned, including gallery talks, special lectures by leaders in the field, a “shoe shopping” event and hands-on workshops. Funding is currently being sought for a catalog and conference. The opportunity for community outreach and engagement at all age groups is especially strong.

            Held at the Portsmouth Athenaeum (www.PortsmouthAthenaeum.org), Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the exhibition will open on Valentine’s Day, February 14th 2015 and be on view through late May 2015.

Curatorial Team:

Kimberly Alexander, Ph.D., University of New Hampshire, Co-Curator

ksalex10@aol.com

Sandra Rux, Curator, Portsmouth Historical Society, Co-Curator

sandra@comcast.net

Tom Hardiman, Keeper, Portsmouth Athenaeum

Elise Daniel, Graduate Student Intern, UNH

Meaghan Reddick, Research Associate

Image:

Galerie des Modes, 1778

KSAM/v.2

The Dramatic Shoe: A Selection from the Chester County Historical Society

I was fortunate to be "up close and personal" with these shoes and many others from the Chester County Historical Society at a recent conference. Colleague Professor Mary Doering, who teaches costume and textile history at the Smithsonian Masters Program in the History of the Decorative Arts (an academic partnership with George Mason University)  invited Nancy Rexford, author of Women’s Shoes in America, 1795-1930 and nationally recognized costume historian and me, to take part in a “shoe study session.”

None of the shoes shown here are timid. These are just a few of my personal favorites- the collection is extensive and impressive. Rich discussion and analysis resulted as part of the session, which I hope at some point we will be able to write up for you.

You have to appreciate the dramatic flourish of this over-the-top satin pleated "bow" ornament which dominates these 1876 cream kidskin wedding shoes. They were worn by Catherine Black for her marriage to Herman F. Myers and have a Marie Antoinette revival flair.

These bright boudoir slippers would have been the ideal indoor footwear for an elite woman, adding some dash beneath her wrapper. Of dark brown leather with red binding, all the emphasis is placed on the front of the slipper with its pleated pink bows, and appliqued green flowers set against a pink panel, c. mid 19th century.

There are two pairs of c. 1800 shoes which really caught my attention and inspired my pen.  If you have followed SilkDamask on twitter or facebook, you will know I have a penchant for plaid. These kidskin shoes with white/purple stripe plaid immediately captured a place among my footcandy favorites! Look at the elegant tassel ties and the impossibly pointy toes, c. 1800. Imagine how they would have looked, with accessories, visually breaking up the solid colors associated with white cotton, muslin, linen or silk of Neoclassical/Regency columnar dresses.

The second pair (pictured below) will be the subject of a future post, but until that time please do check out the excellent blog by our colleagues @2nerdyhistgirls http://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2014/04/a-ladys-embroidered-silk-sandals-c-1805.html

These are indeed rare slippers or sandals as they would have been known by the fashion forward ladies of the late 18^th-early 19^th century. The pink satin vamp has two pieces, laced together with a dark green ribbon. The sides and heels are open. The pointed toe has green embroidery in the form of tendriling vines, a perfect classical motif to accompany the slippers. The soles are suede and the insole features a removable quilted lining – I suspect these shoes were made for indoor wear, most likely for dancing.

All shoes are from the collection of the Chester County Historical Society, West Chester, PA. www.chestercohistorical.org

The exhibition “Profiles: Chester County Clothing of the 1800s” is on view through 30 August 2014.

All photos are by Kimberly Alexander @SilkDamask