Byron Greenough and His Tall Hats, 1820+

Hats were a crucial element of a man’s ensemble, revealing to a passerby at a glance some identifier –usually socio-economic status -- of the wearer. Hats changed styles throughout the 18^th and 19^th centuries with regularity, although often with subtleties lost on a modern audience. Height, width, depth of brim, colors, fabrics and even types of trim, could place a hat at a certain time and place. Hats of beaver fur, wool, straw or felt were among the most common. [1]

There were a number of opportunities for hatters in the early Republic, such as twenty-three year old Byron Greenough, who apparently learned the trade in Haverhill, Massachusetts. He may have apprenticed to the town’s best known hatter, Jonathan Webster, before striking out on his own. He settled in Portland, Maine in 1821.

From the textile collection at Historic Deerfield, this especially handsome, striking bleached beaver fur tall hat, with matching grosgrain ribbon, dates to1825-1835. Completed after he arrived in Portland, the condition is excellent. Greenough labeled his hats. His business grew rapidly to include not only retail hats, but also boots and shoes. A successful businessman, he was able to erect a brick flatiron building at the head of Free Street in Portland.

Last year (2013/14) Historic Deerfield had on exhibit this fabulous woman’s bleached beaver fur riding hat, early 19th century.

1. Styles for men’s hats, c. 1700-95

http://www.americanrevolution.org/menshats.html

2. For more on Byron Greenough, see

 http://www.vintagemaineimages.com/artifact/48886/cart

"My wedding bonnet, October 23, 1878" - Paris, New York, Boston, Portsmouth

While chief curator at Strawbery Banke Museum in Portsmouth, NH, I worked with some very special collections, including the historic garment and textile collection. Certain objects linger with you over time as has this especially noteworthy hat and hatbox. In the bride’s own hand, a label found inside the original hatbox notes "My wedding bonnet, October 23, 1878."

Photographed by Ellen McDermott (www.EllenMcDermott.com)

this beauty offers abundant and complex views and textures. The bonnet was worn by Celia Amanda Elsie Fall Hussey (1855-1944) of Great Falls, NH and was donated by her granddaughter to Strawbery Banke (www.StrawberyBanke.org).

The bonnet is of white or cream felt, attached to a buckram base. The pointed crown features a large bow of cream brocade, highlighted by a maroon, pink and green brocaded floral motif. Eye catching white ostrich feathers crest the bonnet. A brim of maroon velvet encircles the composition. Matching ribbon streamers are affixed to each side. Overall, the condition is good although the feathers are somewhat fragile.

Imported from France ca. 1875-1878, this wedding accessory indicates the savvy fashion sense of New Hampshire brides. Imported from the French millinery and retail shop of Joaquin & Cie. 277 Rue Saint Denis, to New York (58 West 14th Street) and then to Boston (32 Temple Place) and then purchased either through a Boston or Portsmouth shop. Clearly, the acquisition of the bonnet played an important role in the day of this bride. Not everyone can carry off such a piece, which no doubt it caused a few heads to turn and nod with appreciation.

Photographs, courtesy Ellen McDermott, 2010.

www.EllenMcDermott.com