Showing posts with label 20th century shoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 20th century shoes. Show all posts

Friday, August 17, 2018

The Celluloid Heels of the 1920s


Celluloid Heels tells the captivating story of the first man-made plastic - celluloid and its use in footwear. In the 1920s, wooden celluloid covered heels, decorated with rhinestones were in all the rage.  Like the artistically designed celluloid heels discussed by Nazim Mustafaev, so too the book is a work of art in its own right.

The author has thoroughly researched the topic and has such a clear concept and in-depth understanding of his subject, that the book is in perfect balance. To remove even one element—the images of the shoe labels or the advertisements for example— would mar it in its entirety. From the informative and engaging text, to the high production values of the photography, to the carefully selected period photographs and ads— the word that strikes me is harmonious. It is harmonious from the front cover to the end pages.
Of tremendous interest is Mustafaev’s recounting of the evolution of man-made plastics, and the attempts to imbue celluloid with characteristics found in nature— for instance, tortoiseshell, mother of pearl and ivory. Attempts to achieve the texture and interplay of light found in nature, emulated in these man-made heels was exceedingly hard to reproduce. When I asked the author why he selected celluloid heels for study, Mustafaev responded: “I love the celluloid heels and I thought this topic was inadequately covered in shoe literature. It took me some time to research the process and I had to go deep into early plastics history.” 

This is not only an ode to the celluloid heel but to the shoe, its technically advanced concept and to the stylish women who wore them. This is a must read and a must have.

To purchase Celluloid Heels, e-mail: mail@shoe-icons.com. 



Monday, May 30, 2016

A Pair of Festive Silk Brocade Pinet Evening Shoes


Collection of the author
Photo, K. Alexander
These elegant Francois Pinet (1817-1897) evening pumps, c. 1920 are included in my (very) modest study collection.  (The business continued after the senior Pinet died.) They feature a festive, sparkly silk brocade upper with leather sole and heel covered with the same textile as the shoe. They boast the ‘F. Pinet’ label, as well as “Pinet” stamped into leather sole.  


Just about as wonderful as the shoes themselves, however, is the survival of the original box, which probably accompanied them home with a very happy owner.
Pinet, the son of a shoemaker, made many contributions to the field of late 19th Parisian ladies footwear. His elegant boots of the 1870s-1880s were high style designs perfectly at home paired with a Worth gown, for example.
Pines satin lace up boots, c. 1870
Courtesy Bata Shoe Museum
The attention to detail, in particular the balanced design, makes these appear quite comfortable – but I will never know, as I have no intention of trying them on! 

 For additional information:

The Art of the Shoe, Marie-Josephe Bossan, 2004, p. 67





Friday, February 8, 2013

Pink Indulgence: 1790s slippers & 1957 evening shoes

It appears that I am still feeling "in the pink" after the previous entry on Mrs. Eliza Hamilton, so decided to be indulgent by posting two lovely pairs of low heeled shoes or slippers from that ever-informative treasure trove, the Metropolitan Museum of Art. 


The pair of pink silk slippers, c.1790s, are from the UK. They feature a leather sole, with a heel of less than 1 inch. There is no label or attributed maker. With scant information, we can step back and savor the slippers as the delicate pieces they are, illustrative of the aesthetic transformation from the early Georgian to the Neoclassical style. There is a profound shift in palette, texture, shape and style, as fashion morphed from weighty, bold, colorful and richly decorated footwear to lighter (in tone and materials), lower and more linear flats which accentuated the lines of Neoclassical dresses, pelisses, and shawls.


The pink evening shoes, 1956, were designed by the renowned Roger Vivier (French, 1913–1998) for the House of Dior. These richly decorated silk shoes incorporate metallic thread, plastic and glass, all supported on a a heel of just over 1 inch. They are gorgeous confections.



Evening shoes: Gift of Valerian Stux-Rybar, 1980 Accession Number: 1980.597.1a, b

Slippers: Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1966 Accession Number: C.I.66.35.2a, b