The Reproduction of Garments from Sarah Williams 1738 Probate Inventory

Reproduction swatches flank the display and invite visitors to touch the textiles

One of the many engaging aspects of the The Helen Geier Flynt Textile Gallery (a permanent exhibition area in the Flynt Center of Early New England Life) at Historic Deerfield, are four half-scale fashion or dress 'mannequins.' They are clothed in reproductions based on items found in the probate inventory of a young Deerfield woman, Sarah Williams (1716-1738), who died in 1738 at age 21. She was unmarried. Her headstone survives at the Old Deerfield Burying Ground. [1]

The  model displaying "silk" (petticoat, open robe, stomacher) as they might have appeared from Sarah's garments.

Miss Williams came from a very wealthy family as may be seen by the number and type of garments listed in her probate inventory. Among the extensive list: one taffeta robe at 6 pounds; one damask robe at 3 pounds 15 shillings; one chintz robe; one calico robe; one silk quilt; one shalloon quilt and cloth cut for a riding habit and trimming. The reference to one riding hood indicated it was quite costly at 4 pounds 5 shillings. Her inventory also listed three pairs of stays: black, yellow and red. There are several references to unfinished garments or accessories perhaps indicating, in the case of  “cloth for a pocket” that Sarah was sewing the item just prior to her death. The range of items available to Miss Williams in the 1730s certainly calls into question long held mythologies regarding colonial dress.

The Gallery is comprised of four sections representing silk, wool, cotton and linen and the theme is carried through with the half scale mannequins.

1. Additional information provided by Edward Maeder, Curator of Textiles from 2000 to 2008, regarding the four figures wearing clothes inspired by the Sarah Williams probate inventory.  Mr. Maeder spent many months working on this inventory and tying it to the customs records of the period.  He was able to photocopy the London-New England customs records from 1697 (the 1696 ones were lost in a fire) to 1780 from the Public Records Office in Kew.  

The idea to use this information, along with the probate inventory, and to create these figures came out of a 2007 discussion with Kiki Smith of Smith College. She suggested a colleague of hers, Henry Johnson, a talented costume designer at Shakespeare and Company in the Berkshires, would be a perfect person to do the fabrication. They held several meetings, and combining resources, decided on patterns for each of the garments worn by the individual figures.  It may be of interest to readers to know that Mr. Maeder himself quilted the yellow silk petticoat worn with the silk mantua.   The wool petticoat, embroidered with the crewel design, was stitched by Kathleen Smith, of Montague, MA, and one of the foremost specialist for the recreation of 18th century embroidery.

For the full inventory, see www.historicdeerfield.org

http://www.historic-deerfield.org/files/4813/7450/7840/WILLIAMS_SARAH_1716-1737.pdf

Great Coat & Small Clothes: The 1825 Inventory of Gen. John Montgomery

There is no denying it: General John Montgomery (1764-1825) was a wealthy man. He first arrived in Haverhill, NH. from Londonderry, NH. as a trader; by the time of his death in 1825, he was one of the wealthiest and most highly regarded citizens of this significant North Country town, with the esteemed "esq." appended to his name. Distinguished for his business acumen as well as his leadership during the War of 1812, the survival of his highly detailed probate inventory is a true find.

Extracts from the probate inventory will posted on these pages periodically. The focus here will be on his clothing, meticulously listed in the 12 page document of a total estate valued at $2,901.93.

1 Military coat, 2 vests & pantaloons          10.50 

1 Overcoat                                                      4.00

1 Coat                                                             2.50

1 silk vest .50 & small clothes .25                   .75

1 Great coat and cape                                      .50

2 Linnen shirts                                               4.00

1 Silk umbrella                                              2.00

Military:

                              1 Military bridle & saddle                             7.50

Side saddle                                                     6.00

1 Military sash                                              10.00    

Miscellaneous found throughout
the house and outbuildings:

1 silver watch & gold chain                        18.50

1 Gun                                                             3.00

1 bathing tub                                                    .50

2 old pocket books                                           .34

There were numerous looking glasses, dressing and toilet tables, hairbrushes and "snuff flasks."

Most of the General's personal clothing items were listed in the "North Front Chamber" leading one to speculate that that was his chamber; while the bridles and saddles were listed in the Dining Room. Not surprisingly, the North and South Front rooms contained the most costly furnishings while the Back South "parlour" held the library, two family armorials, serving dishes, trays and so on. 

The contents of his store, library and chambers will be featured in future posts.

Illustrations:
1. A page from the 1793 Montgomery Store Daybook, September 2. View of the Montgomery House and store, c. early 1790s
3. View of the Montgomery Store with mid-19th century alterations

Thank you to the Haverhill Historical Society and to the current homeowners for making materials accessible to the author.